Thursday, February 28, 2013

McGettigans, Dubai - Every Town Has An Irish Pub

A Friday just isn't a Friday in Dubai without attending a brunch in some form or another. From 5-star champagne fueled events to the cheap and cheerful, you can find it all. The standard brunch format is an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink 3-hour sprint which regularly deteriorates into a gluttonous, messy affair. 

The Friday brunch at McGettigans Irish Pub was therefore a breath of fresh air. For a set price, you could choose a main meal from a reasonably wide selection of standard and some more adventurous pub food and the meal came with three drinks (including Magners on tap which automatically elevates this meal in my opinion). There was no rush to consume as much food as possible and drink copious quantities of alcohol to maximise the value of the brunch. It was casual and relaxed - the way a brunch really should be.

Given we were at an Irish pub, I felt compelled to embrace the "Irishness" and ordered a McGettigan's fry-up to accompany my pint of Magners. The fry up came with the usual fried egg, hash browns, beans and mushrooms that you would expect. The white pudding and bacon were great - the black pudding was a little too much for me, but my Scottish companions eagerly snapped it up. I'm glad I wasn't starving because while it was a fair portion, it certainly wasn't huge. It ticked the boxes of what one should expect from a fry-up but didn't offer anything more. I am not sure what I expected, but I think I am sometimes left disappointed by restaurant experiences when I feel that I could honestly make the meal just as well as they did - I am no masterchef, but this fry up was pretty basic. Tasty, but basic.

Our other order was the fish and chips served with mushy peas and tartare sauce. The fish was good quality and nicely battered - just enough to give some weight and crispiness, without dominating the flavour of the fish. The chips were hot and crispy, just as chips should be.
While it didn't blow us away or leave us begging for more, it was good, honest food and a decent size serving.

AVERAGE
McGettigan's is no trateur or La Petite Maison - but that is not why you go there. You go there for a relaxed atmosphere, a place where you can enjoy a quiet drink sitting outside in the beer garden or take up residence in one of the comfortable indoor booths for the afternoon. It's brunch menu is simple and so is the food - but simple is not always bad, and it is nice to do away with the fuss of fancy brunches and just enjoy some good old fashioned pub food done well. Happy to recommend this place, but it has stiff competition in the land of the 5 star brunch!

The bill (for 2):
2 x brunch - 129 x 2 Dhs
TOTAL: 258 Dhs (Approx. US$70)

Restaurant address: Bonnington Tower, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Cluster J

for exact locations of all reviewed restaurants, take a look at our map.

Sunday, February 24, 2013

Hukama, Dubai - Many Dishes, Few Problems


Yum Cha is always a safe option. You can always rely on an array of steamed or fried parcels of meat or vegetables wrapped in some kind of rice product. No matter how fussy your palate, you are going to be able to find something to your liking; and even if you decide you dont like whatever you have chosen, you never have more than a couple of mouthfuls to work through before the next morsel steps up to the dinner plate.

So we went to Hukama Restaurant, on the first floor of The Address, Downtown to see how they would approach the Yum Cha concept.

The first thing we noticed was how elegant the whole place was. The table settings were laid out in perfect, shining symmetry, and the glassware looked top notch. Not a cheap Ikea glass in sight. All staff were dressed in navy blue kimonos covered in rather exquisite embroidery. The walls were dressed just as nicely with various paintings, sculptures and even a giant gong to keep with the oriental theme. Meanwhile, the floor to ceiling windows on the outside wall afforded everyone a decent view of the Burj Khalifa.


We ordered some hot herbal tea and iced peach tea, then had a look over the menu, which split all the dishes into broad groups, and allowed for up to 5 of each group of dish to be served to the table. Very different to other dim sum / yum cha I have seen in the past, where the dishes are loaded onto a trolley and wheeled from table to table, with guests taking whatever they want whenever a new trolley arrives.


We ordered five steamed dishes, five fried, one soup, three noodle or rice dishes and one dessert per person. I'll just go into a bit of detail about some of the dishes that stood out, since I don't think the internet is big enough for a full rundown of all fifteen things we tried. Before we get into it I'll just mention that the service on the day seemed a bit all over the place. The waiters would take the drinks orders for some people and then walk off without taking others, the drinks for some people arrived well after the food was on the table, and worst of all, some of the dishes intended for one group were delivered to another group, who unknowingly devoured half of them before anyone realised that a mistake had been made. To their credit, half eaten dishes were replaced, and drinks did eventually arrive, so no mistakes became problems. It was just a shame that the service didn't seem to be up to the standards you might expect based on the presentation or location of the restaurant. but enough of that, here's some thoughts on the stuff that really matters.. the food!


The best of the first bunch would have to have been the pork belly with chinese buns. It was served in two separate bamboo steamers, with the idea being that you place one nice big slippery piece of pork into the bun and then eat it like a tiny meaty sandwich. The natural flavour of the meat withstood the marinade, which was rich but not too salty.


Steamed shrimp dumplings were also a hit with all involved, since the shrimps were fresh as could be and full of flavour. The skins on the dumplings was a lovely balance between sticky and cooked, which made them a pleasure to gobble down.

The most interesting dish was probably the duck meat and taro root fried dumplings. The casings had a shredded rice consistency, which was crispy thanks to the frying. But the insides were moist and soft, with the bits of duck being well protected from the oil by the thick, muddy layer of taro root pulp. Not to everyone's taste, but definitely worth a look if only because it was a damn interesting dish.


Also worthy of mention were the little pork filled 'money bag' shaped dumplings which were delicately crisp at first and then luxuriously sweet and moist inside. Ah, the magic of dropping food into extremely hot oil.

The dishes we shared for our main course were of a high standard for the most part. The only things which let down the meal slightly were the rice and noodle based dishes, which were bland and either too dry or too oily. Of note was the chicken lotus fried rice, which was served inside a real lotus flower, which had to be peeled back to reveal the rice. Unfortunately the rice was all looks and no substance, and was left conspicuously unfinished in amongst piles of other satisfyingly empty dishes.


The soup course was a success. My hot and sour chicken soup was both sour and spicy. That might not sound like a big deal, but I don't take that dish for granted since my visit to Soy. The soup broth was gelatinous and housed all manner of fresh vegetables and tendrils of boneless chicken. Whichever chef created the soup should be introduced to the guy responsible for the rice and noodle dishes, and show him a thing or two about cooking.


Everyone ordered a dessert from the four available choices. I chose the black sesame rice dumpling floating in honey syrup, and served alongside a fried banana. Yep, I am a sucker for dumplings.

The dessert arrived soon enough, and the presentation was as five-star as the decor of the restaurant serving it. The flavour of the soupy black sesame inside each dumpling complimented the thin sweetness of the honey syrup they were bathed in, while the deep fried banana fritter offered an equally incredible but different experience of gentle, oily crunchiness and the viscous, sickly sweet banana flesh. By the time I finished the dish it had become my favourite of the day.

Looking back over all the varied things we got to try at Hukama, I can definitely say that I enjoyed the experience. There were a few genuinely imaginative things, and most of those tasted darn good. I think the management are making it unneccessarily difficult for the staff to serve effectively, given that guests are expected to order each little dish from a menu, and then somehow remember what each thing is once it arrives at the table. If any vegetarians plan to visit, then bring a pen and paper, or a good memory.

RECOMMENDED
When the serving sizes are so small, and there are so many people to serve, an a-la-cart delivery model doesn't really work. Note that we did really enjoy the food at Hukama, but the process of ordering and finally securing each plate was a little tedious. Luckily though, most of the dishes were worth the hassle. This is definitely a place worth trying, but only if you don't arrive starving or impatient.

The bill (for 2):
2 x Yum Cha Banquets (non-alcoholic package) - 290 Dhs
TOTAL:  290 Dhs (Approx. US$79)

Restaurant address: The Address Hotel Downtown, Dubai

for exact locations of all reviewed restaurants, take a look at our map.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

The Shack With No Name, Southern Sri Lanka



Rice & curry. It sounds kind of generic. Who would have thought that it represents a significant percentage of what people order in Sri Lanka? Rice & curry is a ubiquitous part of Sri Lankan cuisine, and available anywhere in the country. It's name may sound vague or even boring, but what you are served is generally excellent and will vary greatly from place to place. The curries in one restaurant might be mild and soupy, while another spot might serve up their curries all thick & fiery. Even the rice can change from white to brown or even red, depending on where you go. Ingredients are determined by season and whatever is good value at the time.

The best way to think about rice & curry is like you are being given a plate full of whatever home cooked delights are currently simmering away in the kitchen on that particular day. You can get your hands on in at pretty much any place that serves food. Just ask politely, and you will usually not be let down.


We figured that we couldn't visit Sri Lanka without reviewing at least one spot that offered this most common staple, so along the main road along the south coast we pulled in at a tiny wooden shack, wedged into the five meter gap between the road and the beach. There were was a lone stilt fisherman sitting on his pole, jutting out of the waves just off the beach. The whole scene was like something out of a travel brochure, or a set from a movie, like everything had been setup perfectly for us.


There was no indication to us that rice and curry was for sale, but it really is so common that you can just order it anywhere that has chairs and food. Inside the shack was simple, clean enough and surprisingly cool thanks to the overhead fan lazily turning and the fresh ocean breeze that came in through the many holes in the walls and roof. We were greeted by a smiling young local lady who took our order and offered us a table. But before disappearing out back to fetch our food, she turned to us and asked, 'Spicy?' while grinning in a way which indicated that if we didn't like it spicy then we might as well just leave right then. Two thumbs up, a big smile and our enthusiastic reply, 'SPICY!' assured her that she didn't have to treat us like the westerners who act like spicy food might cause instant death if they are foolish enough to try it (side note: I used to be one of those people, a LONG time ago). The enormous poster on the wall of a very serious looking soldier holding a gun did seem at odds with the otherwise friendly mood of the place, but really, as long as this lady was able to produce a few decent curries then I wouldn't say anything about her interior decorating choices.

The first thing to land on our table was fresh white short grain rice inside a dish the size of a punchbowl. Im not sure how two people would manage to consume that much rice in single sitting. I thought that maybe the lady was just being polite, or expecting us to eat more than her usual customers considering we are probably a bit larger than most of them. Whatever the reason, it was an impressive pile of carbohydrates.

Next came the curry. well, curries. Five separate portions of diverse deliciousness appeared in front of us, presented in mismatched bowls which looked like they had been purchased from a garage sale at a retirement village. Just looking at the multi-coloured meal was satisfying enough, before we even began to eat. The daal curry had big specks of dried red chillies dotted throughout, and wasn't greasy like a lot of indian daal tends to be. There was a nose-meltingly spicy okra curry in a dry gravy paste, which was probably the most dominant thing on the table, with the stringy, hairy and slightly crunchy feel of the okra being an innovative way to complement a dish where you really cant taste anything through the spice. The 'Brinjal Fry', which is fried eggplant curry with large red re-hydrated chillies was sweet, mildly spicy, seductively slimy and a perfect way to retreat from the more molten lava styled dishes in front of us. A yellow curry was also present, containing a very chalky root vegetable that I couldn't identify; and yep, it was spicy as hell, and gave a solid backbone to the meal which was otherwise maybe a little sloppy. The last dish to appear was a large portion of roasted coconut and red chilli sambal, which was salty, sweet and fresh as the ocean breeze. The point of these diverse dishes being delivered at once is to allow you to mix all the elements together to enjoy a meal where every mouthful can taste a bit different.


In this case, mixing this and that resulted in what was definitely the spiciest meal I have had to date in Sri Lanka. But even though my face would have looked like a tomato by the end of the meal, I was still able to appreciate all the various strong flavours that each dish had to offer. Amazing to think that the spice level was actually in balance with the taste of the rest of the meal. Impressive.  

RECOMMENDED
We finished our meal, although our seemingly bottomless rice bowl still looked full. As we paid our bill, which totalled about three bucks, we wondered how long a place like this would be around. The whole place was badly made from wood, and sat right next to the beach, completely exposed to the elements. I just hope that it is still open for business the next time I am in that part of the world.


The bill (for 2):
2 x Vegetarian Rice and Curry - 300 Rupees
1 x Small Sprite and Large Cream Soda - 75 Rupees
TOTAL: 375 Rupees (Approx. US$3)

Restaurant address: somewhere along the south coast of Sri Lanka... might be best to take a look at the map for this one. I dont think the place even has a letterbox, let alone an address. No need to book ahead for a table either.

for exact locations of all reviewed restaurants, take a look at our map.